Kupang

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We are finally in a place with a flushing-toilet and constant running water. We are now in the Maya Hotel in Kupang.

We left Kalabahi last night by a big ship, the Tatamailau. The reason for our mid-trip escape is very official. We have to leave Alor for a week to extend our about-to-expire visas in the provincial capital Kupang. The Tatamailau is something like a cruise ship (size-wise) without the facilities. If I were blind I would think I was inside a big dead fish, taking cues from the smell. The only facility was a restaurant, which was closed when we boarded. A member of the staff told us it was closed as it was too late. We got on at 6:30pm. My biological clock needs to be adjusted in this country. Luckily, we were well-prepared. Being more experienced with the Indonesian management style, we had brought 6 peanut butter sandwiches, 2 liters of water, 5 tomatoes, 3 bananas, a pack a cheese and a thermo of Earl Grey tea. We had our prepared food in our cabin (we bought first class tickets so we did not have to sleep in the corridor with a lot of strangers), which we shared with numerous tiny cockroaches. We managed to smash quite a few of them with my shoes as our post-dinner entertainment. There was also a spider in the shower, which I took the liberty to drown. I had accumulated quite a lot of frustration the last few weeks, so killing these insects in some violent ways delighted me substantially. Despite the presence of these unfortunate insects, the cabin was in fact agreeable, compared with how we lived for the past month. Our only complaint was the mattresses, which seemed to be populated with fleas. Both Frantisek and I were covered with tiny red spots in the morning. Unfortunately, the fleas were too small for me to aim. I slapped my body randomly and yet forcefully at some unbearably itchy moments, which might have caused a few casualties.

The Tatamailau did not provide breakfast for its first class passengers. The restaurant was of course closed, so no proper breakfast could be bought either. In Indonesia, shops were opened according to the mood of the staff, as well as their napping schedules. We finished our almost soggy bananas and went to the deck to join the crowds. Then the best thing on the cruise-ride happened: we saw a group of dolphins swimming next to the ship! I had only seen trained dolphins in Ocean Park before so seeing them wild in nature was a new experience to me.

Everyone was telling me Kupang was a horrible place (a dry, deserted place). But so far (we have been here for 7 hours) I found it quite alright. The hotel we are staying is clean (no fleas, no cockroaches, no spiders so far) and the TV works. We even have a view of the sea. The restaurant we went for lunch had most of the items in the menu and we were not sick after the meal. We went to the Catholic University for internet earlier on and the computers ran with acceptable speed. Even the ATM machine next to our hotel worked. I am almost happy. Frantisek said we are now in the best part of the town and I would have a more accurate opinion when we walk to the centre later. I am prepared to be disappointed in a few hours, but right now I am full with the hope that this city might function like a normal one.

Joanno